In this guide, we will show you everything you need to know about how to 3d print metal, so keep reading!
Below you can find out 5 different methods to 3d print metal,
- Method 1 – Metal 3D Printing Walkthrough | Markforged Metal X
- Method 2 – 3D Printing Metal At Home? Pretty Much! Farmcraft101
- Method 3 – How To Electroplate 3D Prints … (The Shiny Way)
- Method 4 – How It Works: Direct Metal Laser Sintering (Dmls)
- Method 5 – Diy Metal 3D Printer
Method 1 – Metal 3D Printing Walkthrough | Markforged Metal X
Note – This section will be updated soon.
Method 2 – 3D Printing Metal At Home? Pretty Much! Farmcraft101
Note – This section will be updated soon.
Method 3 – How To Electroplate 3D Prints … (The Shiny Way)
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Method 4 – How It Works: Direct Metal Laser Sintering (Dmls)
Direct metal laser sintering also known as dmls is an additive manufacturing technology that creates metal parts directly from 3d. Cad data without the need for tooling dmls utilizes a variety of metal and alloy materials such as stainless steel. Cobalt chrome and inconel to create strong durable parts and prototypes dmls is an excellent choice for functional metal prototypes. High-temperature applications and end-use parts the dmls process begins in the same fashion as other layer additive manufacturing technologies a.
Program takes 3d cad data and mathematically slices it into 2d cross-sections each of these sections will act as a. Blueprint telling the dmls machines exactly where to center the metal material the data is then transferred to the dmls. Equipment a recoder assembly buschs powdered metal material from the powder supply to create a uniform layer over the base. Plane a laser then draws a 2d cross-section on the surface of the build material eating and fusing the material. Once a single layer is complete the base plate is lowered just enough to make room for the next layer.
More material is raised from the cartridge and recoated evenly on the previously sintered layer the dmls machine continues to. Center layer upon layer building from the bottom up as the part is built support structures are added to give. Supplemental strength to find features and overhanging surfaces the completed part is then removed from the base play and treated. With an age hardening heat process to further harden the part any support structures are also removed at this time. With numerous surface treatment and hand polishing options available through service providers dmls parts can be used in highly cosmetic.
Applications typical uses for dmls include tools and manufacturing aids small integrated structures dental components surgical implants and aerospace parts. You.
Method 5 – Diy Metal 3D Printer
Hows it going so after building the laser i kind of wanted to give myself a break and stick to. Some simple projects but this has just been tickling at my brain for too long i got to do something. About it i want to try and 3d print metal i think it was a veritasium video where theyre 3d. Printing spaceships too cool man i want to do that im not really too antsy to build a cnc machine.
From scratch again so were going to start by using the frame of my ender 3. Youve served me well. Buddy this could be your last breath so you may have seen videos of these before its basically stacking welds. On top of each other is what im trying to achieve here how am i gonna make this work i. Dont know but im gonna give it my darndest first were going to tackle the hardware which is going to.
Take this guy and stick it on this guy so as you can see ive started to disassemble everything dont. Mind the jumbled mess the main things that we need to modify are the print head and the bed so. I think were gonna start by attaching this guy to the print head so ive made these pieces to attach. The head to the gantry this spacer will keep it so it doesnt interfere with this screw ive gone ahead. And cut all this extra fluff off of the head and this will install here using this piece like so.
So we got our print head all ready to go i may need a little extra bracing because it is. A little wobbly but for now were calling it good now we need to start thinking about how were gonna. Make this bed and the part that i was really racking my brain on was to figure out how to. Completely isolate the bed from the rest of the frame of the machine so that theres no weld current passing. Through the machine but if you look at it it already is electrically isolated the only thing attaching the bed.
To the frame is these rubber wheels and this rubber timing belt so this just got a lot easier now. Then what i want for a bed is basically a fixture plate with tapped holes in it so that i. Can put a piece of aluminum on top to use to weld on and fasten it down all over the. Place that way we dont get any funky warpage we got a bed this little tab on the back is. Where we can mount our ground to the welder like so this will mount to the printer just the same.
As the old bed using these leveling mechanism things all right took a little bit of convincing but i got. The bed installed and the original leveling mechanism will still work which is awesome and now we gotta figure out. What were gonna do for the spool for the spool carrier ive made these parts this piece just leaves the. Correct amount of spacing to fit the spool and this is what the spool will go on and from there. I can from there i can just use the regular mounting hardware that came with the spool gun look at.
Me welding machine parts bad form you might be looking at this and thinking wow what a lazy guy why. Dont you just take it apart and to that i say youre right as it turns out not only am. I lazy im also dumb this isnt steel grinds like steel but does not weld like steel broke right off. After much anguish and contemplating my life decisions i went ahead and made this little bracket which can fit into. These two holes that i drilled on here and ill just weld that to my spool holder ive gone ahead.
And attached the printhead and this thing is looking ridiculous everything seems to be working all right the last thing. We got to do is figure out how to attach this to this and im thinking im just going to. Use the original tube that came on the 3d printer because why not that goes there and then this we. Got to figure out how to make that work so we got our little piece that just slides right on. There now i could braise these together but im a little scared im gonna plug the hole in there with.
Solder so were going to use our good old friend quick setting epoxy so i snuck off for a second. There to figure out all the electronic stuff but everything is just about the same as when you last saw. It the only change is ive added a relay but ive meticulously picked through the firmware and removed anything regarding. The heated bed or the hot end ive gone ahead and wired a relay to one of the fan outputs. And this relay is what triggers the welder so we can send an m106 to turn it on and an.
M107 to turn it off ive loaded a spool of er 5356 wire for welding aluminum on the other end. Of this you can see the old spool thing from the welder mostly because i dont want to modify my. Welder at all and i also dont want to run it expecting a load and not getting a load so. Thats just going to spin while this is going these lines are all hooked up to the welder this is. For the trigger ground you know how welder works now ive tested the g-code a few times dry but i.
Have yet to test it with the welder on and boy oh boy i am scared i got my e-stop. Over here its a light switch aint nothing to it but to do it huh lets do it well i. Didnt go quite as planned as you can see here is our beautiful weld heres our absolutely mint condition welding. Tip so i think we started off a little hot lets try this again but colder so this is obviously. Not working very well i think what the problem is is im trying to use the stepper motor for the.
Extruder on the 3d printer to feed the wire the way that any slicer that ive found works the feed. Rate for that and the gantry are matched which doesnt work for welding we need a lot more feed rate. For the extruder and that could be fixed by writing a new slicer for this but were going quick and. Dirty here so ive taken the wire feed mechanism from the spool gun and stuck it on here so now. All the wire feeding is controlled by the welder i wasnt sure if i was going to be able to.
Unplug this without modifying the firmware in the code so stepper motor stays well make it spin a little flag. Or something i googled flag and this came up so its perfect now also im gonna switch everything over so. Its gonna be welding steel just because ive got far more steel im willing to waste than aluminum so lets. Do that heres what we got with our current print settings um not great one the gantrys moving too fast. Clearly two i think i need it to be paused at the start of it for a little bit i.
Think i can get that by using the extruder retract function in the slicer which will just give it a. Little bit more time at the front of each pass either way aint nothing to do but to try again. All right this things not working i think our main problem is this highly professionally built wire feed system didnt. Know it was possible but were gonna make it more professional ive taken the end piece off of this gun. And pulled out the liner and i have this longer piece of liner that i had laying around and ive.
Cut it to where it will fit in the gun and be clamped in place by this bit now we. Just gotta figure out how to affix this end in here im kind of thinking i can just shove this. In here and make a block that will fit right here and get clamped down by this fender washer its. Set to pause for 30 seconds in between layers to let everything cool down check it out we actually managed. To stack some beads and it seems pretty close to what i guess the settings would be the one issue.
We have obviously everything gets very hot and this is where the runs start this is where they end i. Think the plate ends up getting too hot by the time we get over to here causing the bead to. Sink down lower and that just becomes worse and worse and worse with each layer so were gonna try just. A longer cool down and ive adjusted the settings just a little bit future me here oh how embarrassing im. Wearing the same shirt slob im not gonna make you watch a million more failed prints i tried adjusting the.
Settings over and over and over again and never really got happy with the results so this problem could be. Remedied by having a variable feed rate by actually programming the stepper to feed the wire properly but in this. Video were doing the quick and dirty method so my solution no cool down time roll that one so thats. Supposed to be half of a sphere and honestly it doesnt look too bad i clearly had issues with closing. Up that top but i kind of had a feeling that would happen this is crazy man its kind of.
Working if any projects gonna give me cataracts as this one obviously the tolerances arent great were not gonna be. Making any perfect machinable parts on this but for art man ah maybe so the printer is well on its. Way to self-destructing some of these rubber wheels are starting to melt and weve managed to print quite a few. Little barnacles but before this thing completely self-destructs i think we should try something more interesting this is something i. Was working on years and years ago that i never finished i was just trying to make a hand out.
Of sheet metal lets finish that project so one thing i noticed when i was doing a longer print is. This gets a lot hotter than i want it to so ive installed a very professional forced air cooling system. Highly effective obviously that will blow all the shielding gas away but ive programmed in some pauses where the machine. Will pause for 10 minutes a third of the way through the program and ill just turn that on for. That to cool everything off quickly now aint nothing to about to do it wow whos so that didnt really.
Go as planned although we were able to print layers on this thing and this as you can clearly see. Is a very janky setup i think with a little bit more refinement this could actually work so ill be. Revisiting this in the future the programming involved to make this work is far beyond what i am proficient at. Now so its going to take me a while to crack this one but i i am going to keep. Working on it because i think this is an interesting idea theres definitely some improvements to be made for one.
Better wire feed ideally a wire feed with a stepper motor on it so that we can change the wire. Feed amount based on the temperature i think getting some temperature sensors involved and some active cooling would be nice. I dont know theres a lot to be explored here either way thanks for coming along for the journey if. You like what you saw leave a good old danger thank you for watching you.
Conclusion – How To 3D Print Metal
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